Making a raised bed from (failed) cinder block beds

Failure? Definitely not in my vocabulary ….lol

Since the wedge experiments didn’t perform like I wanted them to for producing castings I have now moved a lot of the blocks to create a new sectioned raised garden bed for growing pumpkins and watermelons and a dedicated bed for strawberries…

I first laid a double layer of cardboard on the ground… I then laid newspaper where the cinder blocks would be at… I am hoping this will create another layer of protection from weeds growing up in the beds themselves..

Next I started layering items I had on hand… rabbit manure, shredded leaves, coffee grounds and of course worm castings….each week I add more layers.. this week when I added my layers of rabbit manure and leaves I topped it off with a thin layer of straw..

As you can see from the pictures I have a ways to go to get these filled… I will be adding spent mushroom compost in a few weeks and then will top off with a layer of newspaper with straw and wood chips on top.

It doesn’t matter if the blocks are perfectly level as in time they will settle down and it is in my backyard so I don’t have to make anybody happy EXCEPT the plants ūüôā


Update on wedge experiment

I posted about starting a wedge in my cinder block beds and I have to report that as a castings producer it was a total fail as there were too many root tendrils infiltrated into the castings…HOWEVER… it was great for producing more worms¬†to sell.

The remnants that was left behind was used to fill up low spots and/or holes in my yard.¬† And all those cinder blocks will be utilized to create raised garden beds for me to grow more stuff in…lol

Wedges are a great way to produce castings but as I was able to see having them in contact with the ground and not on a concrete slab or hard pan is not a viable option.

I do have another way to do a wedge system (no pictures, sorry).

I took a open top 55 gallon drum, split it lengthwise, cut the open end off and overlapped the two ends and bolted them together, which created a long trough type bin.  Drilled a lot of 1/8 holes for added airflow and used a piece of PVC to hold the middle open.  I did this with 2 barrels that someone was going to throw away.. (FREE and with a little imagination new worm bins)

I usually start both of these up around the first of November and let them run until the sometime in March.¬† I have these under my house and the heat pump is under there so it stays moderately warm under there through the winter… Both bins are harvested in March and usually produce up to 80 gallons of castings.

Worm Compost Starter Kits

Worm starter kits are a great way to jump start your vermicomposting adventure.

Instead of getting a pound of worms shipped in coco coir or peat moss you are getting worms  encased in material from an already well established and thriving bin.   Also you are getting a bed run of worms which is a mixture of adults, juveniles and babies with an abundance of cocoons.  The cocoons are one of the most important part of this starter mix as there is the potential of 3 babies emerging from each cocoon, therefore they are hatching out in YOUR bin environment which allows for an even greater success.

The bin that the worms and cocoons are coming from will be from an environment the worms have been thriving in for months.  Each bin that I start up will run for approximately 4 months.  I then harvest that bin for the castings, take the 1/4 inch material from screening and the worms and place back into another bin to start the process over again.

Almost a “closed loop” worm farm

On October 26th and 27th I attended my 3rd Vermiculture Conference which was actually the 18th annual Conference hosted by Rhonda Sherman at NCSU in Raleigh, NC.

While there one of the speakers introduced me to a new term…Closed Loop.¬† This term refers to a system in which some or all of its output is used as its input.

What a lot of people don’t know about me is that I also raise meat rabbits for our consumption and also I breed for a couple of snake owners as another source of local fresh food for their snakes.¬† The rabbits manure is fed to the worms and any excess is added to my garden spot and raised beds.¬† I cut grass and weeds to help with feed costs with the rabbits

I collect a small amount of used coffee grounds from an outside source and sometimes I collect cardboard.¬† But I mostly use items from around the house for the worms… delivery boxes, kitchen waste, leaves, yard waste (very aged grass), chipped up tree limbs.

I am almost a closed loop worm farm !!

Wood chips and more….

I am slow to embracing “new stuff” but when I ran across a ad on Facebook I had to explore it and learn more.. as I thought this would be “to good to be true”.

I am talking about a service called ChipDrop… you sign up and create an account and specify what you want.. I wanted wood chips and didn’t care if it had leafy material included… I specified that any wood chips will work EXCEPT for walnut (yes I am a picky worm farmer,lol)

I will be able to add a lot of this to my garden spot (working towards that “no till” area) and also mix this with mulched leaves to be used as worm food.

Anyway if you are interested here is the link to sign up

Also, here is a couple of picture of what I received…. FREE


How to use Worm Castings

dirtHow to use worm castings

Seedlings: Use up to 20 percent worm castings in your potting mix. More than 20 percent will not harm plants, but it won’t offer much additional benefit.

Vegetables and annuals:¬†Side dress with about ¬Ĺ cup of worm castings per plant as needed.

Transplants: Provide 1 inch of worm castings in planting hole before placing plant.

Potted plants: Mix 1 inch of worm castings with top of soil around base of plants as needed.

Trees and shrubs: Mix 1 inch of worm castings with top of soil around base of plants every month during growing season.

Different types of worm bins

If you are interested in vermicomposting I am here to tell you that YOU don’t have to have the fanciest or the most expensive system just to compost your kitchen scraps.

When I started out all I used was a 10 gallon rubbermaid tote.

Just like this one 

You can even use a 5 gallon bucket 

I set one of these up every spring just to show people you can use a non-drilled bucket, just leave the top off and don’t put any extra wet materials in it. ¬†When bucket gets close to being a third full, setup a new bucket with food and bedding and scoop the top third out and place in the new bucket. ¬†Voila! Castings for your plants ¬†that you created!

Once you get the hang of it then you can advance to something bigger and I recommend the VermBin series of plans (you can order your own set on my Home Page). ¬†These are continuous flow through bins (CFT’s). ¬†Add food and bedding to the top and harvest worm free castings from the bottom.

Pictured here is the VB24 (red one) and the VB48

The VB24 is the perfect size for a small family up to 4 people.  It has a small footprint of only  2 feet by 2 feet.

If there are more than 4 people in your household then I would recommend the VB48 (2 feet by 4 feet).

Each of these bins can sit  outside as long as they are in a semi protected area.  I keep mine on my porch.  A garage, carport or even a basement is a good location for these.

Are you a small farm?  Horses, pigs, alpacas, cows and rabbits produce some great material (poop) to cycle through a bigger type system.  Unless you just have a few animals.  NO dog, cat or human feces allowed!!

You can build a cinder block bed to process lots of material similar to these.

I have even converted 55 gallon food grade barrels into worm bins.

You can build a frame around them like this

Or even build a X -frame to hold them like this

No matter what system you decide to start with I will help you get started.  All you have to do is have the desire to recycle, reduce and reuse.  Together we can all do our part to limit what goes in the landfills.  The one thing humans cannot create is more land!!  We all need to do our part to help our planet.

How to harvest castings from a tote style bin

How to harvest your castings from a tote style bin


After you have fed your worm bin for 4 to 6 months (standard in a 10 to 20 gallon tote) ¬†you will notice all this nice dark “soil” in the bottom.¬† This is the castings (worm poop) that the worms have created for you to use as their thanks for taking care of them. ¬†You will want to harvest before the contents turn anaerobic (a wet stinky mess) on you.¬† If your bin is ready to harvest and the bottom is very wet line the sides of your tote with dry cardboard sheets, replace when wet, do this until the castings will form a nice loose ball when cupped.

*NOTE…this is for personal use only for the castings.¬† Retail sales involves a different method and/or equipment in harvesting.

I have used the following three methods in harvesting my tote bins before I changed over to using bigger beds and commercial type CFT’s (continuous flow through) bins.¬† Each one is dependent on how much time you want to spend harvesting the castings.

  1. Simple Transfer is to take the top third of your bin and place that in a newly prepared bin OR set this to the side to add back to the original bin after you have removed the castings. In doing this you will be adding back some of the beneficial microbes from your bin to help the worms adjust to the new bedding.


  1. Light Harvest Method involves placing the entire bins content on a flat surface under a light in a pile. Some do it as a cone or volcano shape to start with.  Scrape a layer off  until you see worms and then stop, the worms will dive down to escape the light.  Do this every 15 to 30 minutes until you have just a pile of worms.  DO NOT DO this in direct sunlight as the UV rays will harm/kill the microbes.  Indirect light works just as well or under a overhead light also.  *NOTE  The entire bin must be finished (no visible food or bedding particles) to do this unless you have a sifter to remove those particles first.


  1. Migration Method takes longer but is effective as well but you can’t use this method if your bin is a small tote OR is completely full. When the bin contents have been worked well and you can’t recognize any bedding or food pieces then push the entire contents into one end of the bin.¬† Add new bedding and food in the opposite corner and mix in a couple of handfuls of the finished section.¬† This process will take up to ¬†3 weeks to complete.¬† If you want to make sure all the worms migrated over do the light harvest method on the remaining pile.

Why have a worm bin?

flow through bins1
Having your own worm bin will help you to reduce the amount of garbage going into a landfill and also enable you to have some beautiful microbially enriched soil amendment for your garden or flowers.

There are many different types of worm bins. You can make your own from just about anything to start out with. A 5 gallon bucket will work just to see if you like worm farming, of course if using a 5 gallon bucket you will not need as many worms to start with. If you start small and see that you are enjoying taking care of your “herd” then by all means go bigger. Maybe your test will show you that this hobby is not for you. But, you will never know until you try.

The picture to the right shows two continuous flow through type bins (CFT). With these bins you feed on the top and harvest castings from the bottom. Usually there are no worms in the finished castings from the bottom.

What I feed my worms

I am asked this question a lot so here is a list of the different things I add to my worm bins:

In no particular order:

Rabbit manure

Shredded cardboard

Mulched leaves

Pulverized eggshells

Chipped/mulched tree limbs

Comfrey leaves

Select fruit and veggie scraps

Used coffee grounds

Used tea bags

Shredded newspaper (very little)

Azomite powder

Granite dust

Old shredded bills or financial information